The variety of colors, the shapes of the limestone rocks and walls are unique in the world. Pinnacles and amazing walls alternate with colorful green valleys full of forests, meadows, torrents and canyons with huge waterfalls. The dense presence of mountain lodges in the central part of the Brenta Group (one every 2/3 hours walk) does not disturb the environment. The Northern part of the mountain group is wilder and has many "malghe" (shelters for the cows). The number of alpinists of the Brenta Dolomites Trentino has decreased in the last years: the alpinists or rock climbers now prefer the more comfortable crags in the valleys. The tourists prefer a short hike to the first lodge other than an adventure on the difficult paths in the Group. Who remains on the walls are only the lovers of vie ferrate because here is their Kingdom. The layer conformation of the rocks permits the access to the many ledges they cut the big walls transversally. On these ledges run the via ferrata delle Bocchette, from one pass to another and from lodge to lodge, across the entire Brenta Group.
Everyone who visits the Alp must have some prior mountaineering experience, a firm step and a good physical condition are prerequisites. The routes (ever Centrali or Alte) is completely different to the "sports" routes in the valleys. In many parts of the routes the iron cable is not present (impossible to anchor on the rocks) therefore some rock climbing experience is necessary. Sometimes the use of the rope is indispensable, especially at the beginning of the season, to belay crossing of channels or frozen sections, particularly on the Bocchette Centrali. The trips from lodge to lodge therefore require previous via ferrata experience.
The offer of the Alpine mountaineering School Arco consists of the Crossing of the mountain chin from North to the South. In five or three days, with overnight stay in the huts.
We meet in Madonna di Campiglio (or in the vicinity). We drive to the starting point in Vallesinella (1.513 m) and here we can leave our car on the parking lot. From Vallesinella we climb up a steep mountain path passing Rifugio Casinei further on up to Rifugio Tuckett (2.270 m). As we are spending our first night here, it is comfortable for us to deposit some of our gear at the mountain lodge, things which are not necessary to be taken on our today's trip. After a lunch break we ascent to Bocca di Tuckett (2.648 m) over a snow slope with sometimes icy segments. In this case we might have to wear our crampons to facilitate the climb up. Once we have reached Bocca di Tuckett we turn North and partially proceed on some of the many iron ladders of the Sentiero Benini (initial part of Bocchette Alte). After a short break on a plateau we descend along the airy and exposed paths of the "Sentiero Dallagiacoma" towards Rifugio Tuckett. We are will spend our first night here - walking time: about 6/7 hours from Vallesinella, considering breaks and slow pace (depending on the fitness of the participants and weather conditions).
Early start from Rifugio Tuckett. We ascent to Bocca di Tuckett and in about one hour we reach the starting point of the Bocchette Alte. (Important information: This via ferrata is for expert alpinists with solid prior experience and can be done only during safe weather conditions. There is no emergency exit during the trip). We are proceeding on iron ropes and upward ladders thus quickly gaining altitude (3.150m). We can enjoy breathtaking stunning views of the Adamello Glacier Park, Presanella Peak and Lake Molveno. At the 3.000 m sign we have reached a comfortable and large ledge called "Cengia Garbari" cutting into the East face of Cima Brenta and turning into a narrow ledge from which we are descending a steep channel by means of two iron ladders. However, these delicate passages are protected by iron ropes. Subsequently we are crossing on airy and exposed paths and channels which leading us to the Southern shoulder of the Cima Brenta top (3.020 m). In our back the South face of the second highest top, in the Southwest Cima Tosa Peak (3.173 m) accompanied by Crozzon (3.130 m). Climbing upwards to Spallone di Massodi and down along the ridge on iron ladders; after a short traverse and an airy straddle, we are getting to proceed on the steep and seemingly never ending ladder - Scala degli Amici - On protected trails with ladders on narrow and airy, more and more exposed towards the end, we are reaching Bocca dei Massodi (2.790 m). We cross Bocca dei Massodi climbing upwards to a platform and then down again to Sfulmini Glacier. After a not difficult glacier crossing in descent we reach Rifugio Alimonta (2.580 m) where we are spending our second night. Total ca. 6/7 hours walk.
Departure from Rifugio Alimonta.
Climbing upwards, we will cross the Vedretta (small glacier above the Rifugio Alimonta- sometimes crampons are
necessary) and reach Bocchetta degli Armi. This is the starting point of the "Bocchette
Centrali" which is one of the most famous and popular route of the Alps. In the beginning there
are a series of short but vertical ladders and we are crossing beautiful and comfortable ledges. Furthermore we are
continuing to cross through a channel which is often covered by snow and later down to the famous pillar "Campanile
basso". We proceed our trip on horizontal ledges which are running along the vally to Bocca di Brenta.
Here we are in the heart of the Dolomites, enjoying the landscape, we reach Rifugio Pedrotti alla Tosa in
about 15 minutes. Here we will spend our third night. Duration of the trip: about from 4 to 6 hours. Important
note: the route are not completely equipped with iron cables and ropes, thus sometimes it is
necessary to climb belayed on our guide' s rope.
Who has booked the 3-day lodge to lodge trip: descend the valley (total ca. 8 hrs - end of the 3-day trip).
Departure from Rifugio Pedrotti: we are shortly passing "Sentiero Palmieri" and we climb up towards the gigantic rock pillar of Cima Tosa until the we reach the chimney with signs of the starting point of "Via normale alla cima Tosa". Later, after a two hours walk, it is convenient to take a short rest on a very panoramic shoulder a balcony over the Dolomites. Here begins our next route called "Sentiero Brentari". In the beginning we proceed on horizontal ledges and later downhill, with a little complex climb, to the Vedretta d' Ambiez (the longest perennial glacier in the Group). At the end of the cable, wearing crampons, we ascend along the Vedretta d' Ambiez and a part of "Sentiero dell' Ideale" up to Bocca d' Ambiez (2.870 m), the highest pass in our trip. Below us we can see Vedretta dei Camosci which we will climb down tomorrow. We descend vedretta d' Ambiez again and down to Rifugio Agostini (2.410 m) where we will spend our fourth and last night. - Duration of the trip: about 6/7 hours. Just for information: the base of our course in the mountains is the scenic and peaceful Rifugio Agostini with excellent food (see the following link: alpinguide.eu)
After a good night' s sleep in cozy Rifugio Agostini, following the way sign towards "Via ferrata Castiglioni"
and climbing up the wall of D' Agola Peak. Some challenging and exposed ladders and steps have to mastered and are
giving us a hand until we have reached Bocchetta dei Due Denti (2.859 m). Hiking along the snowfield Pratofiorito we
can enjoy spectacular views of the Adamello-Presanella Glacier Park and finally we reach Rifugio 12 Apostoli (2.489 m).
Our direct connecting trail between Rifugio 12 Apostoli and Rifugio Brentei (our next destination) is running through
one of the roughest and yet attractive trails of the entire Brenta Dolomites. After a short descent towards
North, we will reach the starting point of the famous "Sentiero Martinazzi". We have to cross Bocchetta dei
Camosci. Sentiero Martinazzi is going around Cima Tosa and the gigantic wall of Crozzon. Towards the
West, the peaks of Fracigli and Crozzon di Val d' Agola are becoming visible. Our trail is of serious alpine
character and can present major difficulties especially with unfavorable weather or crevasses in the Vedretta dei
Camosci glacier. We proceed on an easier path to Rifugio Brentei (2.182 m - possibility of spaghetti and beer).
From Rifugio Brentei we descend to Vallesinella where we have parked our car. An uncomplicated path through
the forest is leading us there in about two hours. End of our five day trip. The total duration from lodge to
lodge Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Vallesinella from 7 to 8 hours, depending on environmental and conditions of the
When: whenever you want, provided during the week (no week-end) and with booking 30 days before the date of departure (We have to book the mountain lodges).
How many participants: minimum three, maximum four, possibility with same skills and via ferrata experience.
PRICE: Euro 595,00 per person for the full 5 day trip - Euro 360,00 per person for the 3
The price includes the rent of necessary technical gear. Excluding: accommodation, food and drinks in the mountain lodges (calculate 50 Euro per person per day, if you do not drink too much).
What to bring with you for the trip: all the technical gear is being
provided by our Alpine School Arco (helmet, harness, set, crampons, rope, etc.). You just
need to bring a pair of solid mountaineering boots and a suitably sized backpack.
Regarding the remaining mountaineering equipment such as clothing, we will provide you with a list after the booking.
How to book or request further information for trip: only by e-mail at least thirty days before the start of the trip.
Often we are receiving requests from individual guests who would like to attend a trip with just 2 people.
We are happy to satisfy special requests from people who have specific date requests regarding their trip.
This proposal is also dedicated to people are not able to match their needs with our calendar program dates of our guided trips.
During a customized individual trip, our mountain guide is able to transmit profound knowledge and to dedicate completely to your own requirements and capacities.
Included in the trip is the rent of all technical gear such as helmet, harness, carabiner set. We also provide for the booking of the mountain lodges. The dates and program of the 3 day or 5 day trips can be agreed upon between the customers and mountain guides (according to availability).
Rates for trip with 2 participants only: 3-day trip Bocchette del Brenta: EUR 495,00 per person; for 5-day trip: EUR 825 per person (Accommodation and food in the huts excluded).
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